This morning I awoke to some drizzling at my campsite despite no indications of such on the weather app. Goes to show some things can slip through the cracks even in the age of digital surveillance. Since my second most important rule is don’t ride in the rain (number one being don’t die), I opted to sit tight until things cleared up as forecasted.
I dilly dallied as best I could, taking my time using the local bathroom (a hole that I dug), and slowly setting up a tent-side cooking situation to make some oatmeal. As I enjoyed that excuse for a meal, I heard something that I think was wood being chopped. I looked in that direction and after a minute saw an old pickup truck reversing away down the main stretch of forest road. It may have been too far to tell, but I believe I made eye contact with the driver as I sat shirtless in my tent.
Again I was reminded of my mortality and felt an urge to pack up promptly and get back in the saddle, especially now that the drizzle had settled into a mist. The first thing I wanted to see today was this rain forest everyone raves about.
The Hoh Rain Forest was wonderful, though at first I was a bit skeptical. There was a decent crowd gathered to walk the Hall of Mosses, and at the outset I couldn’t quite see how this was different than many other trails through pacific northwest forests that look similar.
But as the path continued, the magnitude of moss formations grew, culminating in a lookout point with trees absolutely drowning in it. It felt like a scene from another planet. I’ve included a picture but unfortunately, as the woman in front of me said, “the picture really doesn’t do it justice.” I’m afraid she’s correct. Highly recommend checking this out if you haven’t yet.
Having seen what moss is capable of, I headed back into Forks in search of a burger. I had passed by Sully’s Drive-In on the way in, and figured I’d give it a try. Unfortunately I had not looked close enough on my first glance, as it is closed for an extended period right now. I tried another place that looked like it could put together a decent burger, but also closed.
This lack of options was fortunately just what I needed to go to the actual best restaurant in the area - the Breakwater Restaurant and Bar in Clallam Bay. I headed up the 113 to the 112 which was an absolute joy of a ride with great conditions. When I got to the restaurant I was practically out of water, and luckily they got me sorted fast.
The waitress was super nice and offered to refill my water bottle for the road, and it was interesting to hear about life in Clallam Bay, seeing as she’d been there for 42 years. For Clallam Bay-ers, ‘going into town’ means Port Angeles, which is over an hour long drive. And when all the tourists leave for the winter, they huddle up by their fireplaces and chat late into the evening. Sounds great, where do I sign up?
My ulterior motive for coming up so north was Cape Flattery, the most north west you can get in the continuous 48. After lunch I headed that way. It was pretty cool but crowded, making me a bit regretful that I did not try it on a weekday when the experience might be more serene. That said, still a stunning coast to look at. If I had more time I would’ve killed some more time there, but the sun was setting and I needed to make camp.
…
I’m posted up now at Cycle Camp near La Push. This place is epic. There are a bunch of campgrounds for motorcycles and bicycles alike, bathrooms with a shower, laundry, communal food in the fridge, and an open use kitchen. Fully donation based and I did not need any reservation. What an oasis!
It’s a bit of a culture shock really. Having always lived in urban or suburban places, this level of mutual trust isn’t really something I’ve gotten to see at this scale. Sure, I’ll share eggs with friends and family, but random strangers passing through? There just isn’t a precedent for that where I’m from.
I’m bummed I didn’t get to meet Bob, the owner of the place. The host here Nathan said he’s a real character, and in the pictures I was shown he certainly looks the part. Bob’s goal is that everyone has fun and is happy. All the reason to come back here next summer to meet the legend himself.
I also met Zoftan here, who just finished circling the United States via bicycle. Super impressed with that effort and I wish him luck in finding work to fund his next expedition.
I’ve eaten, showered, dried my towel, and gotten into my tent. All is well. Thank you Cycle Camp!
Miles Today: 171
Total Miles: 456
Camp: Cycle Camp, La Push